LVMH Executives Continue To Shuffle, Berluti Creative Director Suddenly Quit

When the industry is querying whether high fashion is dead, LVMH has brought in a large number of designers who applaud and attract.

After many creative team turbulence, LVMH increasingly focuses on men's clothing with more potential for growth.

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According to fashion business news, LVMH's menswear brand Berluti suddenly announced today that creative director Haider Ackermann will leave.

Berluti as a classic French Paris luxury.

The brand began in 1895. After four generations of operation, it was bought by LVMH group in 1993, and launched a series of advanced leather products in 2005. The complete garment series was launched in 2011.

In September 2016, LVMH announced the appointment of Haider Ackerman to succeed Alessandro Saroti as the creative director of the brand.

After graduating from Royal College of Art in Antwerp, Haider Ackermann worked as an intern in John Galliano brand, and founded her personal name brand in 2003 with the help of her friend, now Raf KLEIN, creative director of CALVIN KLEIN.

The picture shows the designer Haider Ackermann.

Antoine Arnault, chief executive of Berluti, once said in her entry that Berluti is positioned as a luxury men's wear brand, and sells casual casual garments in addition to advanced customization. In the future, more leisure elements will be integrated to achieve brand pformation.

Although Haider Ackermann has won the praise from the industry for its cool and elegant style, it has not handed over a representative single product to Berluti since then. So far, he has only released the three season men's wear for the brand.

According to sources, footwear and leather products account for about 70% of Berluti's total sales. During his tenure, he ignored the shoe business as a driving force for growth.

LVMH has not released the brand's fashion and shoe core business data, but according to industry estimates, this sector has created sales of about 190 million euros.

The group also emphasized Berluti in its 2017 earnings report.

Products are growing steadily, and all markets have achieved excellent sales performance, and will continue to expand the scope of other products in the future.

According to LVMH 2017 fiscal year report, group sales rose 13% to 42 billion 600 million euros, and operating profit rose 18% to 8 billion 290 million euros, holding the leading position in the global luxury industry.

The group explained that its growth was mainly due to strong demand in the Chinese market and Christian Dior, which was bought by the group last year.

Up to now, Berluti has 52 boutiques and 23 wholesale channels worldwide, and plans to open stores in the UK, Australia and China this year.

It is noteworthy that Haider Ackermann is the third creative director of the men's wear brand announced after leaving the LVMH brand in the past month.

There are people in the industry who speculate that the purpose of LVMH's letting Haider Ackmann leave is for Kris Van Assche tenant, who left Dior men's wear last week.

Previous sources revealed that Kris Van Assche would be pferred to other brands of LVMH after leaving.

In addition to Berluti, Dior men's wear and creative director of LV men's wear have been replaced. In view of frequent adjustments to the brand creative director, there is an analysis that LVMH will focus on men's clothing in the future.

Up to now, Berluti has not yet responded to the replacement of Haider Ackermann.

In fact, since 2011 when Antoine Arnault, the son of LVMH boss Bernard Arnault, took over its management position, it began to comprehensively change the strategy of driving growth of women's garment business, such as Fendi and C line, and plans to strengthen this luxury brand men's clothing department.

According to data released by EDITED, between 2013 and 2016, sales of ten luxury men's clothing retailers including Barneys, Saks and Harrods rose 100%, while sales of ten major retailers in the high-end market surged 278%.

According to the US digital marketing agency DIGIDAY, the growth rate of men's clothing will exceed women's clothing in the next three years, and the net income will be 2.3% and 2.2% respectively.

By 2020, men's clothing market value or exceeded 33 billion US dollars.

As Tammy Smulders, director of global business at Havas Media Group, said, even male consumers are getting more and more attention to their fashion image in social media from the influence of successful people to pop idol.

This means that men's clothing or luxury goods giants will be the next major market competition.

So far, Berluti has not yet responded to the replacement of Haider Ackermann.