How Does This "Cool" Make The Fashion World So Fascinating?

The tail of 2016, Vetements and Commedes Gar ons launched a set of LGBT.

It is on sale at Denver Festival fair.

Apart from the rainbow, purple, double-sided axe logo (usually associated with Lesbin Pride) and so on, LGBT concept is not very good at aesthetic level.

But the price of 625 dollars is almost sold out in 2 days.

This is not unexpected. After all, "Hey, this is Vetements".

If a word is used to define 2016

In the circle, street fashion is not allowed.

It seems that in a flash, "cool" has penetrated into all levels of the fashion industry.

You can see the names of Gosha Rubchinskiy, Demna Gvasalia and Lotta Volkova, the stylist in the major fashion annual character awards.

Gosha Rubchinskiy

Demna Gvasalia and Lotta Volkova

The uniqueness of Gosha Rubchinskiy has fascinated fashion circles and has become a hot Street brand like Palace and Supreme.

The Vetements of Demna Gvasalia is much less to say. At the time when it was booming, we were all concerned about it. This year, he also succeeded Alexander Wang as the new creative director of the Paris family.

As for Lotta Volkova, behind the scenes, she is known as the "cool stylist" of the fashion industry, and from Demna to Gvasalia with her.

Fashion media use "post Soviet style" to describe their fashion trends, though.

Maybe he doesn't like this label. After all, he sounds a little western ideology.

But labels always help us understand new things.

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According to the world clothing and shoe net, the Soviet Union collapsed in December 1991.

Russia, Georgia, Ukraine and other Soviet countries are in a state of political, economic and cultural chaos.

Western pop culture and consumerism began to enter, McDonald's, Coca-Cola, Vogue, MTV... The children born during this period experienced a completely different environment from their parents.

Gosha Rubchinskiy (Moscow), Demna Gvasalia (Georgia) and Lotta Volkova (a city in Vladivostok, Russia) are the first generation to grow under this cultural conflict.

They began to contact western brands, like young people in other places, indulging in social media, enjoying sports shoes and advocating appearances.

But in the past few years, the economy of the post Soviet countries has been unstable. With Russia, the rupee has depreciated by 2 times. Young people can not afford to buy the brand they used to like. If they want to buy new clothes, they need to find ways to satisfy their needs.

So this mixture of modern and 8 and 90s sports style of "post Soviet style" has been formed.

The cool Street elements you see in your legs, asymmetrical winds, spliced jeans, artificial fur, T-shirt and sweater with a sense of humor on consumerist Logo are all interpretations of this style this year.

How does this "cool" make the fashion world so fascinating?

It's not cool to follow the regular venues and time.

If a fashionable trendy boy can find the place and time of Vetements's show for the first time, it can be regarded as a bragging talk.

Vetements does not take part in the fashion week of Paris in March and October. Instead, it takes the show in January and June. There is no unusual way to take the show, for example, at 9 p. m. in the sex club or the Christ Church in Paris.

Besides looking cool, Gvasalia is also a commercial consideration. "The design of such a time frame will be displayed on the shelf for 6 months instead of two months, and this is also a consideration for the sale of fashion at full price."

GoshaRubchinskiy has held the biggest show so far this year in the Florence men's Wear Exhibition (PittiUomo), which has always been dressed in western style, and has abandoned the Florence landmark palace architecture of the general designer, instead of choosing an abandoned tobacco factory.

This year, you will find that more and more fashion brands who want to become "cool" are beginning to abandon regular show time and venues.

By the way, they do not like to use regular models, but they are very fond of street models.

To meet this "cool" demand, RachelChandler and WalterPearce, who once selected models for fashion shows and fashion magazines, set up a Midland company specializing in street pigmented human models.

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Circle way of doing things, keep cool.

Gvasalia entered the capital of Paris and brought up his cool Vetements team.

Gvasalia did not use supermodels or celebrities to make a show for the long history of luxury brands, and continued the show to LottaVolkova.

"I need these people to be around me, and my creative work is to a large extent closely linked with them.

They are not just working with me. We spend the weekend together, going out together, spending holidays together, listening to music together, and even watching funny cat videos on YouTube.

We are always together. "

He said in an interview after the show.

You will find something interesting. Street culture emphasizes individuals rather than collectives, but the young people gathered by street culture are very close.

(who says anarchism is not a doctrine?) and in the case of identity, street clothing exceeds the form of music to some extent.

In the past, rock bands could cause fanaticism. Now street brands seem to be able to measure the queuing length of each new shop and the speed of official website sales.

But how much of it is cool and cool is hard to say.

In short, circle culture makes them more willing to work with like-minded friends rather than unfamiliar professionals.

In the men's week of Florence, Rubchinskiy also brought his skateboard friends, friends of friends, and Lotta Volkova of Gvasalia team to the show.

Gvasalia and Vetements team

The attitude towards counterfeit goods is "cool":

Gvasalia believes that plagiarism is a good thing.

Russia's Shanzhai market will not lose China.

It is common for them to be very demeanor about being copied.

And know how to push.

"Personally, I think the encounter of Louis Vuitton is quite fascinating.

The counterfeit makes it crazy, and this brand is becoming more and more important.

I have always thought that for a big brand, this is a good way to promote the market.

If they want to do market promotion, do they have to pay some money to make people imitate their products? So you can reach people with different consumption levels.

Gvasalia was asked how to look at the Korean fake market.

During the fashion week in Seoul, he also held a special sale in the suburb of Seoul. The inspiration came from the fake market in Korea.

They also like to "plagiarize" the brand Logo, such as this "C" Logo from the mass sports brand Champion.

It also led to a "plagiarism" wind. First, the artist AvaNirui bought many Champion's sweaters, and embroidered the brand names with "C" near Logo, such as RickOwens, Chanel, Gucci and so on.

Even though Nirui thought the joking Hoodie sold for 700 dollars was appalling, he wanted to make fun of Vetements with the "poison attack" method.

But this does not hamper brands, such as VFiles and Pyrex Vision.

Vetements

AvaNirui

PyrexVisionVFiles

The former Soviet Union's foreign flavor and Western street culture aesthetics do not follow the conventional way of playing cards. They consciously reject the established system in the fashion field. This scene is like the "Hiroshima fashion" of the 80s of last century. A wave of Japanese designers - KENZO, Wakubo Rei and Yamamoto Teruji - made the western fashion world surprise while breaking the stifling and opening up new fashion styles.

Whether this "post Soviet style" will have Yamamoto Teruji's power is unknown yet. But judging from the fashion trend of 2016, it is very remarkable.

More interesting reports, please pay attention to the world clothing shoes and hats net.