Introductory Knowledge Of Textiles: "Tenth LYOCELL"

I believe a lot of friends have new materials that contain Tencel, and they all know that this kind of fabric has excellent hand feel and excellent luster. It is very comfortable in the end.

But I know little about this kind of fabric, so I looked for relevant information, hoping to help you.

Tenth - English scientific name is &nbspLYOCELL

Now there are two popular brands of Lyocell fiber in the market: the TENCEL produced by the British company and the LENZING&nbspLYOCELL. of the Lenzing Co in Austria. Among these two brands, TENCELL (brand) has a huge share in the Chinese market and has become the most famous brand name of LYOCELL fiber in the world.

PLyocell fiber (meaning soluble fiber) is known as the green fiber in twenty-first Century. It is a kind of artificial cellulose fiber, which is made from wood managed by artificial forests. It is trained by high-tech means. With N- methyl morpholine -N- NMMO (NMMO) as solvent, a first step "ring type" solution spinning method is used to produce the regenerated cellulose fiber, which is made from wet spinning. The environmental impact is minimized. It is an environment-friendly fiber. Waste can be degraded naturally, and the amine solvent in the production process can be recycled.

In 1980, the German Akzo-Nobel company first obtained the patent of process and product, and was formally named by the international man-made fiber and synthetic fiber Committee in 1989.

At present, the world's production capacity is about 120 thousand tons, distributed in the United States, Britain, Austria, Germany, India, South Korea and China's Taiwan.

Lyocell fiber is used for its excellent wearability.

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It can be spun or blended with cotton, linen, silk, wool, synthetic fiber and viscose fiber to improve the properties of other fibers.

The fabric made of its yarns is glossy, soft, smooth, natural handle, excellent drapability, good air permeability and comfortable wearing.

Pure Lyocell fabric has a pearl luster, and its inherent fluidity makes it look light and thin with good drapability.

Different styles of weaving and knitting can be used to weave different styles of pure Lyocell fabrics and blended fabrics. They are used in high-end jeans, women's underwear, fashion and men's senior shirts, casual wear and casual wear. Recently developed fine denier and super fine Lyocell fibers make it play a better role in the development of high quality products.

At present, Lyocell products are becoming more popular in Japan, Western Europe and the United States, and sales are increasing.

For industrial purposes, Lyocell fiber has higher strength, stronger strength than polyester, much higher than cotton, and its wet strength almost reaches 90% of dry strength, which is also unmatched by other cellulose fibers.

It has been widely used in nonwovens, industrial filter cloth, industrial yarn and specialty paper.

Lyocell fibers can be made of non-woven fabrics of various properties, such as needling, spunlacing, wet paving, dry spreading and hot bonding, which are superior to viscose fiber products.

Several European companies are studying the application of Lyocell fibers in sewing thread, work clothes, protective clothing, diapers, medical clothing and so on. Japanese paper manufacturers are also developing the use of Lyocell fibers in specialty paper.

Under the wet condition, the Lyocell fiber products will produce obvious fibrillar phenomenon by mechanical external friction. This phenomenon is manifested by the separation of finer fibrils from the fibers and the creation of Mao Yu on the surface of yarns.

Fibrillar production is due to the higher axial orientation of Lyocell fibers, the weaker lateral bonding force between micro fibrils, and the greater expansion of fibers under wet conditions. This weakening of binding force causes the fibers to peel off and the residual cortical fibers to crack longitudinally under the friction of their own or metal, resulting in the formation of longer uneven fibers.

The properties of Lyocell fibrinolysis make the fabric of this fabric two types. One is to make use of primary fibrinolysis, enzyme treatment and two primary fibrinolysis to produce peaches skins style products. The other is to produce neat and clean surface area without two times of fibrinolysis after enzyme treatment.

Although the Lyocell fiber is easy to fibrillate, it brings convenience to the production of non-woven fabric, filter material and peach skin style fabric, but it brings trouble to the production and use of smooth fabrics, such as the control of processing technology, the selection of equipment and auxiliaries in production; the fabric is easy to get hair and ball, and the color light will change.

In addition, the fabrics made of Lyocell fabrics have undergone severe washing after many times of washing, which makes the garments strong and obsolete.

Lyocell

Performance

The main composition of Lyocell fiber is cellulose, like cotton or viscose.

Their molecular weight and crystallinity are between cotton and viscose.

Degree of polymerization and crystallinity of Lyocell fiber, cotton and viscose fiber

Fiber cotton &nbspLyocell viscose

Polymerization degree &nbsp10000 &nbsp500-550 &nbsp250-300%

Crystallinity (%) &nbsp70 &nbsp50 &nbsp30

It is precisely because of the unique degree of polymerization and crystallinity of Lyocell fiber that it has three characteristics, namely high strength, its strength is close to polyester, and its water absorption speed is two times that of cotton, and its moisture regain is better than that of cotton and its self fibrillation.

Index comparison of Tencel fiber.

OTENCELL&nbspA100 characteristics

1. pendant and elegant movement

2. light and soft touch

3. there is no microfibril effect on fabric surface.

4. the fabric is elegant and glossy.

5. the color is deep and clear.

6. excellent printing effect

7. highlight fabric texture.

Function of TENCELL&nbspA100

1. excellent color absorption and lasting color.

2. high tear resistance: two times as much as cotton (carding).

3. knitted fabric has high anti bursting strength.

4. washable and durable quality

5. no matter after cleaning or wearing, all garments are kept intact and fibrillation principle.

Fibrinability is one of the properties of ordinary Lyocell fibers. Fibrinolysis is a fine microfiber (diameter 1-4um) on the surface of fibers.

Generally speaking, when the first fibrillar is used, the fibrils produced are relatively large, usually in 1mm, or even longer, and can be entangled into balls. If they are not disposed of, they will affect the wearing and perception.

The degree of fibrillation is characterized by fibrillation index F.I. (Fibrillation&nbspIndex), which is generally divided into 0-10 grades. The higher the series, the stronger the degree of fibrillation.

Usually, when the fibrillation degree is more than 2, the appearance of the fabric is rather ugly.

The main factors affecting the fibrillation of Lyocell fabrics are the following aspects (100% &nbspLyocell, 21 x 16 &nbsp110 60 60, 63 "fabric):

temperature

The higher the temperature, the greater the fibrillation index.

Therefore, in order to achieve sufficient fibrillation in practical production, higher temperature can be used to improve production efficiency.

PH value

The increase of pH value of aqueous solution is conducive to the swelling of Lyocell fiber and its fibrillation.

Therefore, in order to improve the efficiency of fibrillation, it is possible to increase the pH value of water solution as far as possible.

time

Before processing time 90 minutes ago, the fibrillation index of the fabric had a linear relationship with the processing time, that is, the processing time increased, the fibrillation index increased, and the fibrillation index increased slowly after 90 minutes.

Therefore, it can be thought that under the treatment conditions, the fibrillation time of the fabric should be enough for 90 minutes.

Two fibrillation

The fabric of Lyocell is made of peach skin. Therefore, the dyed Lyocell fabric will produce two fibrils with two fibrinolytic processes.

The fibrils produced here should be much thinner and shorter than those produced for the first time. They are a dense layer of short fiber (commonly known as peach skin).

If we first fibrinate the Lyocell fabric and the enzyme is fully polished, then the second fibrinolysis will produce the ideal peach skin, and the peach skin should be preserved.

Lyocell fiber is a new generation of regenerated cellulose fiber obtained from wood pulp dissolved in NMMO solvent system without chemical reaction and dry spray wet process.

First, the German Akzo&nbspNobel company acquired a patent in 1978. After that, it was successfully commercialized by the British Courtaulds company (merged with Accordis company) and the Austria Lenzing Co (Lenzing) to the world market.

By May 2004, Lenzing fully acquired the production of LYocell fibers, including filament and staple fibres, and once monopolized the global market.

LYocell fiber entered the Chinese market in the middle of 1990s, and the Chinese commodity names include "Tencel" and "wood pulp fiber", which triggered the upsurge of research and production of Lyocell fiber products in China.

Due to Lyocell

The production technology was once completely mastered in the hands of foreign companies, so its price has remained high. China imported Lyocell fiber 9795t in 2005. The import price of customs statistics is 2616 US dollars / T, which is more than 50% of the conventional fibers such as cotton, polyester, viscose and so on. The import price has reached 35 thousand yuan / T in the first few years.

Due to cost factors, the prices of Lyocell textile products in China continue to remain high.

Since the late 1990s, Donghua University, Shanghai Textile Holding Group and other units have carried out long-term research and made joint research with a research institute in Germany.

In February 2006, the first bundle of domestic Lyocell fiber was successfully produced in Shanghai Rio development enterprise limited. The production line of 1&nbsp000t / year was officially put into operation, breaking the original monopoly pattern of foreign enterprises.

It is estimated that the output of domestic Lyocell fiber will exceed 10 thousand T / year before and after 2010.

It can be predicted that with the success of the localization of the fiber and the continuous expansion of its output, the market price of China's Lyocell fiber will continue to decline.

Because the dry and wet strength of Lyocell fiber is excellent, the dry strength is close to that of polyester fiber, and the wet strength decreases little, about 85% of the dry strength. This makes Lyocell fiber resistant to mechanical and chemical treatment. The elongation at break of Lyocell fiber in wet condition is also very small, and the elongation of wet state is about 17%, so that its product has good dimensional stability.

These advantages make up for the defects of conventional viscose fibers.

At the same time, the advantages of low energy consumption and pollution-free Lyocell fiber production process are that conventional viscose fibers are incomparable and are truly green environmental friendly fibers.

Global Lyocell fiber production capacity in 1992 less than 20 thousand T, has expanded to 150 thousand T / year, is expected to reach 450 thousand T / year by 2010, the market share and influence of Lyocell fiber in the regenerated cellulose fiber family will continue to improve.

Clothes woven with LYOCELL yarns have the following characteristics:

1. wrinkle resistance, because wood pulp fibers are not prone to wrinkles, LYOCELL, as a representative of wood pulp fibers, can maintain ironing with multiple washes.

Two

&nbspLYOCELL has already prevented shrinkage treatment, so as to avoid the shrinkage of other cotton fabrics.

3. soft and smooth LYOCELL after special treatment, the feel is more soft and smooth.

4. the moisture absorption of &nbspLYOCELL is good, and the drawback of slow drying of cotton fabric is avoided.

5. mildew proof &nbspLYOCELL itself has a unique mildew resistance. It will not cause permanent regret for your momentary negligence. Besides, LYOCELL is also very beneficial to health. Some people abroad have done some discussions on medicine and exercise physiology. Comparing LYOCELL with cotton, the change of ECG shows significant difference between them. LYOCELL has an advantage over the parasympathetic nerve. LYOCELL is also comfortable because it is conducive to promoting the wearer to fall asleep. When exercise and after exercise, the heart rate, blood pressure and oxygen intake, LYOCELL shows lower value than cotton, indicating that it may reduce the burden of human body when exercise.

LYOCELL products washing matters needing attention

The washing methods of LYOCELL products are basically the same as those of other similar raw materials. If they are pure LYOCELL products, they can be washed with a washing machine. If they are mixed with other raw materials, they must be cleaned according to the labels. Similar to jacket, dry cleaning is the best. When washing, it is necessary to separate from dyed clothes. When washing, it is best to use neutrality. Most of the LYOCELL garments can be machine washed or dry cleaned..LYOCELL clothes are still soft after washing. They only need to be heated at moderate temperature or slightly dry cleaned, and clothes will return to be soft. If you want to achieve more effect, you can use the washing net or anti bottom to wash outwards to keep them longer.

The manufacturer may process the clothes, so please see the instructions on the label on the clothes first.